Howards' Renaissance Dress

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Girls Frock and Chemise Combo

Girls Frock and Chemise

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Sir Christopher Hatton    Unknown Woman, thought to be Mary, Queen of Scots   Unknown Child, by Isaac Oliver

English Renaissance Dress

English Renaissance dress style was quite heavily influenced by the French, and to a lesser degree the Spanish. Indeed some scholars debate whether there was an actual English Renaissance, but they do admit to an “artistic flowering” during the reigns of the Tudor monarchs. The English Renaissance period was characterized by achievements in literature and music, rather than the visual arts of painting and architecture that was developing in Italy and France. Even though some elements of English Renaissance dress were borrowed from other countries, they did make variations and improvements upon them. One example is the ruff, this small ruffle around the neck and sleeves of a man's linen shirt, which could vary greatly in its ornateness, became a favorite of English gentlemen. The ruff had originally been introduced in Spain by a noblewoman wishing to hide a blemish on her neck.


During the English Renaissance, many garments of the same style were worn by both the upper and the lower classes. However, the type, quality and especially color, of the fabric used for these clothes varied greatly between the classes. To the rich, fashion was very important as a symbol of their wealth and influence; to the poor, however, their concerns were that a garment be practical, and above all durable. All classes used wool or linen for shirts and underwear, but of vastly different quality. Only the extremely wealthy could afford cotton or silk under garments. These were often embroidered with gold, silver or silk thread.


Fabrics used in English Renaissance clothing were colored almost exclusively with vegetables dyes. The most common being madder for red, woad for blue, and walnut for brown. In order to create other colors and shades, a chemical, known as a mordant, was needed. For instance, alum used with the weld plant would produce yellow, whereas iron or tin used with weld would result in shades of green. The most expensive dyes to produce were bright red and black. Therefore, only the truly wealthy wore jet black clothing, and scarlet, during the English Renaissance, referred not to a color, but to an extremely expensive fine grade of wool. Because dyeing was expensive, the clothing of the poorer classes was generally limited to uncolored linen and brown wool.


Laws passed during the English Renaissance, known as Sumptuary Laws, were supposed to help curb some of the growing extravagance centering around clothing, but they also further enforced and emphasized the differences between the classes. Only members of the royal family could wear “fur of the black genet”. A person must be at least a viscount, in order to wear sable, and a Knight of the Garter to wear blue or crimson velvet.


Howards' Renaissance Dress is committed to bringing you a variety of Renaissance, medieval and gothic clothing and accessories, ranging from peasant wear to more noble dress. Most of our garments for men and women are available in plus-sizes. As you browse our pages for gowns, breeches, tunics, vests, doublets, and much more; we hope to entertain you with a little English Renaissance history along the way. Thank you for visiting with us, and we hope you will come back often!!